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Spring bars

Spring bars are those little metal springy bars that connect a watch bracelet or strap to the case. They can cost anywhere from a couple of dollars to about $50 for 18K gold ones, but they are really important.
Good quality spring bars keep your watch from falling off your wrist and there are a [...]

Keeping track of screws

Most the time when I work on a watch, I don’t worry about how to put them back together. As I disassemble the watch I examine each component for faults as well as to understand its function. Usually this is enough for me to get it back together. If I understand what the [...]

Screwdrivers

Today for Tuesday’s Tools I talk about the tool I probably use second most to tweezers, my screwdrivers. I use the standard 9 screwdriver set from Bergeon. There are better screwdrivers out there. I would really like a set with ball bearings instead of a friction bearing but I’ll probably wait until this set wears [...]

Monday Myths - the battery

As long as I am aware of myths which need to be dispelled I will do so on Mondays.
“If I pull out the crown on my watch will the battery last longer?” - I can’t tell you how often I hear that. Well I’m here to clear up the myth.
The short answer is yes, [...]

Five films from Rolex

While visiting the “Timezone Rolex forum they mentioned five new videos on the Rolex web page. They are pretty neat short films about what goes into constructing a Rolex (sort-of). They cover the following topics:

The Movement
The parachrom hairspring
Everose Gold
Ceramic Bezels
904L steel

To watch the videos visit their web page at http://www.rolex.com/en/#/en/xml/inside-rolex/rolex-company/obsession-with-perfection/index

Lessons from a day of watchmaking

About a week ago somebody called asking whether I could change a battery in a Baume & Mercier. I told him I could. We have the necessary case opening tool. He was ecstatic, apparently we were the 18th store he had called looking for somebody with the appropriate tool to change his battery. [...]

Hand Pushers

Today for Tuesday’s Tools I present to you my hand pushers. They are very simple tools, but frankly you really need to have good ones. Hand pushers are used for installing hands on a watch. Well made hand pushers will keep you from marking the hands when you install them. This set are Rolex [...]

Environmental concerns in the watchmaking industry

This is a topic I have wanted to expound on in detail for quite a while but I have a hard time finding the information I need. Here are some thoughts, nothing here can be taken as the gospel truth, it is all educated hypothesizing.
Common thought would lead you to believe that a mechanical watch [...]

What you get from a counterfeit

Disclaimer: I would never purchase a counterfeit watch, nor do I usually work on them which is why I am making this post. I will not be making a habit of discussing counterfeits here. I strongly believe that counterfeiting, like pirating, plagarism, and stealing to be unethical and wrong. I choose not to participate [...]

Micromechanics, Part III

Micromechanics I
Micromechanics II
With our first major exam behind us it was time to move on to the next unit. With winding stems we learned to cut stems on the lathe. Mostly right angles and flat surfaces. Our next task would introduce large tapers. We were to make a balance tack. The balance [...]