An update to the what is it post. That tool, which I confess I did not know exactly what it was for, is a tool for cutting shoulders on pocket watch bows. Thank you Jon for informing me. Here is a close up shot of the cutters and a video of it in action. I know I should put it in a vise when I use it, but I don’t have one at home yet.
What is it? We have here a tool from my workshop. On one side it has a large disc with small cutting tools on it. There is a pin to position the cutters. There is a handle to rotate the cutter. Only one cutter rotates at a time. On the back side there is a flat piece of metal with a hole in it which can be drawn in close to the cutter but has a spring which constantly pulls it away.
Bergeon showed some new fancy tools for watchmakers at Basel this year. I haven’t had a chance to actually play with any of them, hopefully I’ll get the chance before too long. For now here is the catalog of new tools but don’t forget your pocket book, these tools don’t come cheap. Here is the link to the catalog.
The first in a series of posts about the history of the Rolex President on Jake’s
Rolex Watch Blog is fantastic. I hope the rest is not too far behind.
When we moved shops about 9 months ago I found this little vial of brass tubes. At the time I didn’t know for what they were intended. I still don’t but I found a great use for them. They are a cylinder of brass with the end turned down to a smaller diameter. Each one is drilled through the center. They are all of varying outside and inside diameters. When we moved I couldn’t think of what they might be for but I thought they might be useful so I kept them and filed their location away in my mind.
Last week I was working on a vintage chronograph. When I removed the seconds counter hand the tube separated from the hand (this is not uncommon, but unfortunate). I was not able to find a similar hand so I needed to repair the hand. The tube was too worn to be reused. This is when I remembered the little brass tubes. I found one that fit tightly on the post and put it in the lathe. I turned down a shoulder to go through the hole in the hand and riveted it on to the hand. Voila! I had a working hand and a use for the tubes.
If anyone knows what the intended use for these little tubes is, please let me know.
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On occasion I hear someone ask why Rolex doesn’t use anti-reflective coating on their watch crystals. This Ladies Constellation is a good example why not. Click on the image to enlarge it and take a look. The haziness and scratches in the crystal are a result of ordinary wear to the anti-reflective coating on the crystal.
Rolex is a watch designed by individuals who have spent considerable time at the repair bench. Anti-reflective coating is annoying if you repair watches. You cannot touch anti-reflective coating. A crystal with AR coating on it needs to be handled with extreme care; and what do you do if a speck of dust lands on it? You can’t touch it, that’s for sure. When applied to the outside of the crystal normal wear results in considerable scratches. On the inside of the crystal the blame would fall to the watchmaker.
I have one watch with AR coating on it and many without. I personally have not noticed that one is easier to read than another, for me it is all the same. If your watch is reflecting too much light, rotate your wrist slightly.
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I have never seen this tool in real life or in any modern catalog but it looks terribly useful. The rare time when I need to reset a roller jewel I have found it to be a somewhat awkward task. This tool appears to make it practical and easy. Click on the image for a larger image which will facilitate reading the accompanying text. Where can I get one of these?
Following up on yesterday’s post I’ll make a quick note about the keyless works (winding and setting) of the ETA 2824 and 2892 movements. It is quite easy to dislodge the set lever and/or yoke when removing and/or inserting the winding stem. The barrel bridge has a slot in it which is meant for you to use a screwdriver to depress the set lever so you can remove the stem. Pushing the set lever down beyond the bottom of the slot (like with a sharp object) can result in the setting parts dislodging, but even when using the right size screwdriver you can sometimes have problems. When you do come across a problem it means you have to remove the dial and hands and date indicator ring to restore the winding and setting parts to their proper places — this can be a real headache.
The key, I have found is to depress the set lever only as far as necessary and for only as long as necessary. I slowly push down on the set lever post while pulling on the stem slowly. As soon as the stem begins to release from the set lever I stop pulling on it and release the pressure from the set lever pin. I then pull the stem the rest of the way out. When replacing the stem I insert it in until it contacts the set lever and gently press down on the post while turning until the stem slides into place. This method works much more often than the simply “using a screwdriver’.
I think the key here is slow, steady, and patient. If you are in a hurry you could screw it up.
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