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Distraction

by J.Peter

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I was working on a watch this morning that was serviced by another watchmaker within the last two years. The customer complained that the watch was not winding while on the wrist. As it turns out the upper pivots on both reversing wheels and the driving wheel (the major components of the automatic winding device) were heavily worn. Why were these components worn, but not others? I suspect that the watchmaker was interrupted or distracted andfailed to oil the pivots in the upper automatic bridge.

LWT Students & Alumni

by J.Peter

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Far and away most of the discussion on this blog has centered around watchmaking schools. It seems lots of people want to become watchmakers. Which is fantastic! For those of you looking to talk to some graduates of watchmaking school, or current students you should check out the LWT Students and Alumni page on facebook.

Watch careers on the way out?

by J.Peter

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Friday yahoo declared that watch careers were on the way out: 9 Careers on the way out. They attribute this to cell phone use displacing watch consumers. Too bad the Swiss watch industry exported 26 Million watches in 2008 (the most ever) totaling 17 Billion Swiss Francs, a 7% increase over the previous year. (See FHS Statistics) Granted 2009 was slower, but it nothing to do with cell phones and everything to do with the world economy, you will note that mobile phone sales were also way down in 2009. I think I’ll stick with watchmaking for now, I think the future is good for us.

Basel World Predictions

by J.Peter

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It’s that time again! Basel World is March 18-25th, 2010. This is where all the major brands (except Richemont brands) announce the newest and greatest for the watch world. I’ve made it a habit to make a few predictions about what Rolex will release. First a disclaimer: I do not have any knowledge of what will happen. I just like to guess.

  1. The obvious move by Rolex is to release a new version of the Stainless Steel Submariner. It follows suit, having redone the solid gold Submariner two years ago and the Steel & Gold Submariner last year.
  2. I predict the Anniversary Submariner released 5 years ago in Steel will be discontinued. It doesn’t make since for them to continue it in the old case or to redesign it in the new case. This will cause a feeding frenzy to ensue for the remaining stock of this watch.
  3. The No-date Submariner will remain as is - without any changes, it sells because of its classic simplicity and they would be crazy to change it.
  4. Having put a full diamond bezel on 36mm Datejust models in Steel & Yellow Gold and Steel & White Gold models last year I expect (hope) we will see this expand to Steel & Rose Gold models as well as to 26mm Datejust models, but maybe 31mm models. I’m a little fuzzy on this one.
  5. Now for what is not going to happen but I wish it would:

  6. Annual Calendar - even if only in precious metal watches.
  7. Pepsi GMT

Let me know what your predictions are (for Rolex, or for other brands) and what you think of mine.

The work of another

by J.Peter

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Ryan just informed me that he posted some pictures of his projects from watchamking school on perpetuelle.com. Check them out at perpetuelle.com. If you would like to see more of Ryan’s work, which looks really good to me, let him know with some comments.

Screwdriver Update

by J.Peter

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I’ve been meaning to write an update on screwdrivers for a while now, but I just haven’t gotten around to it. Lakextrand asked for an update, so here it is:

Way back in 2008 I got my hands on Bergeon’s new screwdrivers and wrote a little review. Well lets update the review. I’ve downgraded the Bergeon screwdrivers to a Don’t Buy. I still love everything I loved about them before, but they have one little flaw. I apparently got a little drop of oil or grease on my screwdriver because the silicone grip now slips, limiting the amount of torque I can apply to a screwdriver. The tips for these new screwdrivers are fantastic. They are tougher than the traditional blued steel screwdrivers, and they need to be sharpened less often. I recommend you get whichever screwdriver you like, but be sure to put these new Bergeon tips in them!

Jewels in Watches

by J.Peter

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I just wrote this blog post for Beauchamp Jewelers, check it out if you are interested.

A Steep Learning Curve

by J.Peter

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I recently serviced a watch with a steep learning curve. I guess I though a quartz watch, was a quartz watch. But, alas, they are not!

Piaget Quartz

The watch was a Piaget Caliber 8P2. I tested the electronics before agreeing to service the watch because I knew that I was unable to order parts from the manufacturer. Quartz watches are usually straight-forward and they usually don’t require parts as long as the electronics are good, so I took a small gamble and decided to service the watch. Boy, was I in for a surprise!

This caliber has some definite peculiarities, and it had been tinkered with in the past to add to the difficulty of the repair. My first clue that this repair was going to be anything but ordinary was when I removed the dial and found a gooey mess all over the movement. I was pretty sure it didn’t belong there and some fellow watchmakers confirmed it for me, as well as warning me that the endshake on the rotor was very particular on this movement and only adjusted with a special key.

stickydial

Someone had glued the dial in place with rubber cement, or perhaps some kind of a grease. In fact, once the movement spacer is attached to the movement the dial will stay in place by the friction of the outside edge of the dial against the lip of the movement spacer - no glue necessary! — This was remedied with a cleaning but it was the adjustment of the movement that took some work and some serious learning.

First, the time on this movement is set by an electrical switch which is activated when the crown is rotated in either direction. This requires that there be two stators with opposite polarity on the rotor of the watch. This was not a big deal, except that this watch has two different rotors in series in the gear train. The first wheel of the train is attached to a permanent magnet which rests in the two stators which control rotation in both directions. The second wheel in the train is also attached to a permanent magnet which rides inside of a multiple-polarity stator and I’m not sure why. These two wheels have to positioned properly so they work with each other and not against each other. Any misalignment will keep the movement from working. Proper alignment ensures that the hands move smoothly in both directions.

Setting the time on this watch is done electrically by rotating the crown. The clutch wheel (sliding pinion) engages an electrical switch instead of a setting wheel. When the stem is turned one way the hands turn in one direction, when turned the opposite direction the hands turn the opposite way. After I got the watch running smoothly I had problems with the switch and the watch wouldn’t keep time properly. Turns out the spring which interacts with the sliding pinion was ready to break, and eventually it did, but not until the customer received the watch.

Final tally: it took 3 services within three weeks to get this watch up and running properly, but only because I had to learn all about this movement. The learning curve was steep but I am prepared for the next one I encounter, should I ever see another one. If the manufacturer would disseminate technical literature I could have saved myself a lot of trial and error learning, but then I wouldn’t have learned these lessons all at once.

Watchmaking is full of learning experiences like this. It is important to be able to figure out how things are supposed to work, because the proper documents are not always available, or even if they are, pictures are not the same thing as the actual watch.

Check the Package

by J.Edwards

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Double Check the Package

I installed a new mainspring in a Rolex calibre 3000 recently. Cleaning, adjustment, and assembly of the movement all went smoothly and when I put the movement on my timing machine for initial timing, it timed out great. My amplitude however was almost off the charts. Very unusual.

I double checked the engagement of my pallet stones with the escape wheel. They were perfect when I checked them the first time and just as much so when I checked them the second time around. If the engagement of the pallets had been a bit on the shallow side, I could have attributed the unusual amplitude to that, but they were fine. So that wasn’t it.

I listened carefully to the mainspring glide smoothly along the barrel wall at full wind, exactly as it should. If there wasn’t enough thixotropic grease, the mainspring could snag on the barrel wall and cause an excessive amount of power to be transmitted through the gear train, which would result in higher amplitude. Alas, that wasn’t the problem either.

I double checked the endshakes on the wheels through the gear train and at the balance wheel. Nothing was awry. Had they been excessive, it could potentially have been the issue, but not to the degree I was seeing. Endshakes can be a big contributor to a lack of amplitude if they are too tight, but rarely might they cause excessive amplitude. I would have been very surprised if excessive endshake proved to be the cause, but figured that double checking them was at least worth a shot. No luck.

On the surface, everything was checking out flawlessly. The only problem that lay before me was the very possible danger of the roller knocking if I couldn’t tame the amplitude.

Just shy of deciding to pull the pallet stones way out, I decided to double check the package of the fresh mainspring I had installed. Turns out, I had somehow mistakenly ordered and received a mainspring for the calibre 3035, which is a substantially more powerful mainspring than the one used in its littler brother, the 3000. A simple change to the correct mainspring and everything was back on track and running perfectly. Amplitude included.

Save yourself a potential headache and double check part numbers! I try my best to always do so, but interruptions to serve clients, phone calls, and other distractions in the shop can sometimes get the better of me. On the bright side, it’s another lesson learned and if it ever happens again I’ll be able to save valuable time by checking the package sooner. Hopefully, knowledge of my blunder will save you some time down the road one day, too.

More Ways to Save Yourself a Headache

Rolex Calendar Contest Results

by J.Edwards

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A big thank-you to everyone who participated in the write about your school contest to win a 2010 Rolex Calendar. There were some really fantastic additions to the watchmaking schools page of the Alliance Horlogère wiki that I am positive will be of great value to prospective students. Two of the most standout entries were those by our blog readers Anonymous and Perdita about their schools, Saint Paul College and North Seattle Community College.

In keeping with past contests here on Tick Talk, the winner of this contest was chosen by numbering each comment on the blog and then generating a random number using random.org. So, without further ado, the first qualified entry selected by the random number generator is comment number 4, by Perdita! Congratulations, Perdita! And thank-you again to all who participated.

To be sure you never miss out on the contests we run here on the blog, like the Orient Watch Giveaway and our watch barrel closer contest, you can subscribe to the blog via automatic email delivery or your favorite RSS reader.