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How Jewel Bearings for Watches are Made

by J.Edwards

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Ever since John Harrison first used them in his H4 pocket watch, to defeat the longitude problem, jewel bearings have played a pivotal role in the precision of nearly every serious watch or chronometer produced since. They are now so ubiquitous and commonplace that most watchmakers take them for granted. We shouldn’t. The time and energy – not to mention patience and precision – required to make a single jewel is incredible.

While George Daniels illustrates in detail how to cut and shape jewel bearings in chapter 7 of Watchmaking, there are subtleties to this art that are much better communicated through video. Thankfully, once upon a time, America’s Elgin National Watch Company produced a comprehensive, 72 minute documentary on the production of watch jewels, detailing every step of their process, from raw boule right through to the specular finish. If you have ever wondered just how a watch jewel is made, watch and learn:

I found the segment on the automatic drilling machine to be most insightful, particularly the way the fine, steel drill rod is set and centered in shellac without holding up production of the other stones being drilled simultaneously. It is also interesting to note the number of naturally sourced aids, such as olive oil and honey, that were used by Elgin in the production of their jewels. Having spent many long hours enlarging a jewel hole once, using Daniels’ techniques, I can attest that it is nothing short of the miracle of industrialization and economies of scale that allows synthetic ruby jewels to be as inexpensive and abundant as they are today.

To download a copy of the documentary to watch later, or to stream it in a different format, visit archive.org/details/JewelBearings.

5 Fun Stocking Stuffers for Watchmakers

by J.Edwards

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In past year’s I’ve compiled lists of usually useful – and sometimes unusually useful – tools for watchmakers that can fit in a stocking. For this year’s list, I’ve opted to have a little bit of fun and compiled a short list of out of the ordinary items we’re not as likely to use at the bench, but still have ties to horology. If you’d like to read last year’s list of 11 great stocking stuffers for 2011, you can check it out here.

1. Watch Movement Cuff Links


As watchmakers, quite often our favourite aspects of a particular watch are kept hidden beneath a dial or the caseback of a timepiece. Watch movement cuff links, on the other hand, let the beauty and intricacy of a watch movement shine. They prove to be interesting conversation starters at weddings, cocktail parties, and black tie events. A typical pair will set you back around $150.

For the makers among us, it is also possible to fabricate your own using movements you may have on hand. All that’s required is a set of cuff link blanks and a little J-B Weld.

For those who would prefer a pair that actually tick, there are also these tourbillon cuff links, which we introduced to you in 2010.

Almost Free to Potentially Priceless

2. Beginner Watchmaking

Nearly every watchmaker dreams of one day crafting their own watch. In the wake of the upheaval and standardization within the watch industry over the past century, however, few practicing watchmakers ever actually follow through on this dream. Part of the reason for this, I believe, is that it is a long and arduous journey to design, execute, and succeed in building a watch from the ground up on the first try. Some, like the grandmaster, George Daniels, have proven it is possible to achieve, but there are other world class watchmakers, like Kari Voutilainen, Antoine Preziuso, Franck Muller, & Vianney Halter who began their independent careers by customizing pre-existing watch calibres or ebauches. Working this way allows you to begin with a functional base that you can be more certain will keep time in the end. It frees you to focus on executing on the fine details and the likeliness of achieving small victories earlier in your journey helps to fuel the passion and desire that will keep you hooked and help push your work to greater heights as your skill, know how, and vision increase with each new watch. A nearly failsafe place to start on this voyage is with Tim Swike’s Beginner Watchmaking, which is targeted at novices but also provides useful resources for more seasoned watchmakers. If, or when, you’re ready to take your craft to the next level, dive into George Daniels’ Watchmaking

From $10 to $15

3. Cellphone Macro Lens

Macro Lens
As alluded to in previous years’ lists, if a picture’s worth a thousand words, this little macro lens for cellphones has saved me millions. I have been surprisingly impressed with the quality of pictures I’ve been able to capture with it and it has proven priceless in enabling me to easily communicate the details of a watch repair to potential clients. It has also been great for sharing some of the craftsmanship and wonder, of the small universe I interact with everyday, with family and friends.

Nearly $15 when I first bought mine a little over two years ago, the price on a new wide-angle/macro lens combo at the time of this writing has plummeted to an unreal low of only 9¢ on Amazon.

As little as 9¢

4. Watchmaker’s Pocket Knife

armyknifeWith the exception of no longer toting one in my carry on bag at the airport, I always like to have a pocket knife close at hand, as they pack a lot of utility into a very small space. This Swiss made watchmaker’s pocket knife is a tag team effort between the ever reliable Victorinox & Swiss watch tool manufacturer, Bergeon. While I wouldn’t even begin to consider undertaking a complete service with one, mine has proven helpful for small jobs, like strap swaps or bracelet adjustments, and ballpark estimates for service when not at the bench. In a pinch, I’ve also used mine to fix a few cellphones and eyeglasses for friends and family.

Around $250

5. Clockwork Pencil Sharpener



Last bit of horologically inspired fun, is a clock key inspired pencil sharpener by SUCK UK. The brand produces several other horological oddities, as well, including this googly eye clock.

$25

A Handy Tip for Letting Down the Power on a 7750

by J.Edwards

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Here’s a handy tip for letting down the power in the mainspring of an ETA or Valjoux 7750, without the hassle of disassembling the automatic section, achieved by lifting the click spring out of its seating and disengaging the reverser stop click. Check out the video below for a breakdown of the steps involved.

Via @hermanmayer2

A Message from the AWCI President – December

by myazijian

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December’s Horological Times 2012


Please note: The situations outlined in the following message also apply to many of our clock repair members.

Continuing on my last month’s message to both repair professionals and manufacturers…

We have established that the very nature of watch repair is indeed quite complex, if one is to emulate factory conditions; and this is the only way a moisture-proof mechanical timepiece will function well for an average of five years before the lubricants begin losing their viscosity. Anything less than factory assembly standards will lead to a questionable performance.

Unlike a car engine where the oil can simply be drained out and fresh oil filled, a mechanical timepiece has to be completely and carefully disassembled, surgically cleaned, errors corrected, worn parts replaced and surfaces treated where needed. Additionally, up to eight or more different types of lubricants may need to be used in strategic amounts and locations, and finally, the watch needs to be timed and adjusted in order to achieve best performance. This can be summarized in the table below

What Manufacturers’ Initial Assembly Deals With: What After Sales Service Deals With:
Start off with lubricant-free movement parts Dried lubricants found in movement
Clean parts Possible dirt and dust in watch
No wear and tear (new parts) Normal wear and tear
No damage from previous repairers Possible damage from previous repairers
Proper approach with quality workmanship – QC checks at various points Questionable quality of workmanship
Consistency in workmanship Questionable consistency in work
Properly trained staff Questionable staff training
Proper final quality control Questionable final quality control

Table copyright of Manuel Yazijian

The above table covers just the movement section. There are still the dial, hands, casing componentry (e.g. crown, pushers, gaskets, crystal, bracelet and more). If there is a failure in any of the afore-mentioned tasks or components, the timepiece will function erratically, come to a complete stop, have moisture ingression or have bracelet parts failure, among others. Ultimately, the watch will come back with an unhappy customer.

This message serves several purposes.

To demonstrate to manufacturers that our AWCI-trained and certified members, CW21 or CMW21 understand the importance of the above and adhere to preserving these practices at all times. By making spare parts, technical documentation and training available to watchmakers who have proven themselves competent through our certification program (CW21), it can take the burden out of your hands and put it in the hands of the independent practitioners who are located country wide—from the smallest town, to the largest city all across America. They will properly service your brand at the mere cost of spare parts from your end. You can then continue to focus on the mostly push-production strategy of watch manufacturing, your specialty. The centralizing of repair centers has its own set of challenges and may not meet a 100% of the after-sales service requirements for your products.

To remind our practitioner members to adhere to our Standards & Practices at all times while performing repairs and not to give in to the constant pressures of taking short cuts to satisfy self-interested parties or to meet unrealistic repair goals. (Please refer to our Standards & Practices on www.awci.com under About Us/Governing Documents/S & P’s.)

To inform retailers of the complexity of timepiece repair and, therefore, to understand that emphasis must be placed on the above-mentioned points in order to maintain properly functioning watches, and most importantly, a happy clientele.
After realizing the truly complex nature of repairs, many watch and jewelry retailers come to understand that watch repairs are not necessarily profit centers, but profit generators. Properly functioning watches help create goodwill between you and your client with the ultimate aim and purpose of establishing a loyal client-base who will have warm and fuzzy feelings about your business. This, in turn, helps increase the sales of your high-end merchandise, such as diamond jewelry, watches etc. This is where your true profits are—this is why you pay premium overhead for your retail location.

The opposite can be quite disastrous to your sales. Clients bringing that same watch back for the 3rd time or more because it was never repaired properly in the first place will have sour feelings about your establishment. They will go to the competition; you will lose those clients forever. The competent watchmaker is your friend and your partner, let him or her make a comfortable living and they will help you be even more successful, especially in a difficult economy. If you don’t, the good ones will eventually leave the profession for other more profitable fields. Those reaching retirement age will eventually cease performing repairs for you, and you will be left with… who?

Please feel free to contact me at the e-mail address below to see how AWCI can be of assistance to you.

Manuel Yazijian

As always, keep your skills honed, your standards very high, your attitude professional, your tools and equipment in great condition and your workshops clean and organized; you never know who may come by to pay you a visit.

George Daniels’ Autobiography Back in Bookstores

by J.Edwards

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It has been a historic month for watch auctions. A Rolex Single Red, Sea-Dweller prototype sold yesterday at Antiquorum for half a million dollars (yes, that is a time only, stainless steel watch). J.B. Champion’s Observatory Chronometer from Patek Philippe also sold yesterday at Christies in Geneva for nearly $4 million, as did a Perpetual Calendar Chronograph from Patek, owned by Eric Clapton, for just north of $3.6 million.

One of the most historic horological auctions of all, that took place this month, however, was that of the late George Daniels’ Horological Collection, by Sotheby’s in London, last week. To gain some firsthand perspective of his work and the significance of some of the timepieces that were up for auction I recommend watching this video, from the Wall Street Journal, featuring several of Daniels’ timepieces explained by Michael Clerizo, journalist & author of Masters of Contemporary Watchmaking.

George Daniels was, arguably, the most impactful watchmaker of the 20th century. He was also an inventor, author, mentor, and avid collector and racer of vintage Bentleys. Many of the independent watchmakers who are members of the AHCI list him as the watchmaker who inspired them most. F.P. Journe – a most remarkable watchmaker in his own right – gifted George Daniels with a specially crafted Chronometre Souverain a year before Daniels passed away last October. Engraved on the balance cock of the watch were the words “FP to George Daniels My Mentor”. George Daniels’ legacy lives on in the spirit of fellow English watchmaker Roger W. Smith, who apprenticed under him directly, as well as the countless other watchmakers inspired by his thoroughly descriptive book, Watchmaking.

Where Watchmaking details the craft behind George Daniels’ timepieces, his autobiography, All in Good Time, details their history and the story of the man who made them. Hot on the tail of last week’s George Daniels auction, his publisher has recently rereleased All in Good Time: Reflections of a Watchmaker. The title went back on sale at the end of October in the UK and just hit store shelves today in North America. Amazon’s first round of stock sold out in just a few hours, but there are still some copies showing as available over on Amazon.co.uk.

For a small taste of another, up-and-coming book on the life of George Daniels, written by Michael Clerizo, I highly recommend reading this article from last week’s Wall Street Journal. Clerizo’s forthcoming book, entitled George Daniels: Master Watchmaker & His Art will go on sale in 2013 and is available for pre-order now.

Another Damaged Mainplate

by J.Edwards

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A few months ago we showed you a mainplate from a watch that had somehow come to be damaged through severe mishandling. Today, we’re going to show you another damaged mainplate. This time, from a modern watch calibre, whose mainplate was damaged through a combination of poor engineering, overuse, and lack of service.

The mainplate serves as the very foundation of a watch movement. It’s arguably one of the most robust components in a movement and, relatively speaking, it’s not an easy thing to break. More often than not, when damage is done, it is not easily undone, and the mainplate will either need to be rebuilt or replaced entirely in order for the timepiece to function properly again.

If you take a close look at the comparison image below, you will notice a tapered area, in the mainplate on the left, that has been worn away into a rectangular recess in the mainplate on the right. A small, but significant difference that resulted in the quick-set mechanism of the watch, for the time zone and date, to be inadvertently engaged while in the neutral crown position.

The watch that this mainplate was in features a screw down crown to improve the watch’s water resistance. Most screw down crowns are designed to disengage from turning the stem (and thus keep from winding the watch) while the crown is being screwed down onto the watch case. This prevents undue stress from being applied against the components of the winding and setting mechanism while those components are in motion. The style of crown in this particular watch, pictured in the top of the comparison image below, is not designed to disengage. Thus, every time the crown was screwed down, the stem continued to turn while simultaneously applying pressure against winding pinion. The winding pinion also continued to turn, driven by the sliding pinion being turned by the stem. This combination of pressure and turning action of the winding pinion against the mainplate effectively created a miniature radial saw that cut away at the mainplate until the watch no longer functioned as it should. In this case, the quick set mechanism would engage and alter the date/time each time the crown was screwed down.

Thanks to Al, from Archer Watches, for sharing some of his photos for this post.

Come in a little closer . . .

by Jordan Ficklin

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As a watchmaker we have to examine every part of every watch to check for defects. The smallest imperfection in a watch can make a big problem.

If you click on the picture you can see it closer up. This image is taken at 140 power magnification. It may seem like a very small amount of deformation but combined with the deformation in the sliding pinion it is almost impossible to set this watch. The lesson is that you need high magnification and careful inspection to find the defects on watches. Be sure your watchmaker is doing it right.

Whoa! That’s a bit tight

by Jordan Ficklin

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Dear Sir or Madam who last worked on that beautiful Hamilton 992b that was on my bench today. I think you may have tightened down the crown wheel screw a bit too tight.

That is a 1.60 mm screwdriver blade that completely cracked in my efforts to remove the screw. It broke after having soaked the screw with Kroil for quite some time. As of now, the crown wheel is still in place.

As a rule of thumb, I was taught that when tightening screws in a watch you should gently turn the screw until it comes to a gentle stop and then turn the screw additionally the equivalent of the width of the slot. This keeps the screw from being too tight or too loose.

A Message from the AWCI President – November

by myazijian

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November’s Horological Times 2012

As you read this column, in some parts of the country, snow has already hit the ground and you are safely within the confines of your comfortable workshops working away doing what you enjoy most. In other parts of the world, it may still be warm with near summer-like conditions. Regardless of climate, our work is always indoors; this element of our work has some pros and cons.

The short message is clear: Try to harmonize the outside elements along with the inside elements in order to have a most enjoyable workday.

Since many of our members are engaged in after sales service, also known as “repair,” we must first recognize that a good quality timepiece, with very few exceptions, worked well when it left the factory. It was designed and put together in such a way that if used under normal conditions, it would require a service and maintenance within the next prescribed amount of time, e.g. 3, 4, 5 or 7 years.

Thus, to make it functional again to factory standards, it would be safe to say factory conditions must be emulated. To undo almost all the steps the factory took to assemble the watch is indeed a rather complex and tedious task. Is a watch supposed to function well for the next five years if you keep that worn part in? Why? Did it come with a worn part from the factory? The answer, of course, is no. That part must be changed. Fresh oils must be applied to surgically-cleaned components and adjustments must be made to bring it back to specs.

As a Message to Our Readers Who Are Manufacturers of Watches and Clocks:
It would be of interest to you to know that many of our members are qualified and certified to industry standards. They are mostly independent business owners who are capable of handling the majority of complex tasks required to protect the investment you have made in your product. These independents have invested a good amount of resources into:

  • Real estate
  • Specialty tools and equipment
  • Training and certification

The product which you have made and marketed, will continue to function well into the future only if properly serviced, according to factory standards, by people who are truly passionate about this art and who care about the product, as well as the role they play as good ambassadors toward your customers – the wearer of your watch, or the owner of your clock.

One of the dangers of a company working with only one representative can easily lead to the lack competitiveness. The absence of competition can usually result in a deterioration of the quality of workmanship, not to mention long delays by one representative who is trying to “eat it all.” The client should have his/her watch back on their wrist as soon as possible while always adhering to factory standards. Long delays can contribute to a loss of interest in the concept of the wristwatch or the switching over onto another brand.

We at AWCI are here to help protect your investment in the good name of your product. In exchange, we would like to have the correct parts to help perform the work correctly. After all, which is easier, sending the part to the professional watchmaker who can take care of the problem at or near the client’s location, or having the watch sent back to you? Using a professional local watchmaker is also advantageous to you because it represents a minimal investment on your part.

Please feel free to contact me at the e-mail address below to see how AWCI can be of assistance to you.

Manuel Yazijian

A Message from the AWCI president – October

by myazijian

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October’s Horological Times 2012

The summer vacation period being over after all the fun and excitement that we all deserved, we quickly realize the fall season has drawn fast upon us. It is time for reflection and assessment of our current standing, followed by planning and preparation for the following business year.

Planning for the future is always a good thing to do. Many of us are artisans and technicians, involved in the small world of watch and clock repair and restoration that come across our workbenches. Each repair has its own set of challenges that we have to identify and solve with the ultimate goal of rendering that timepiece back to working condition; and not just any working condition, but close to that of when it left the factory. This is a tall order. However, we quite often drown in the details of solving the challenges of the job in front of us, and this takes us away from the task of planning and growing our business. It is important to set time aside for this and ask someone else to help with planning if you are unsure of how to go about it. Asking for help does not mean we do not know, it means we want to plan better by minimizing mistakes.

Take one day off. Get out of your workshop if you need a different environment, a place where there are no interruptions, with no phone calls or e-mails. Get yourself a large calendar, some pens and markers, sticky notes, water and snacks but most importantly, your creative thinking. Use these tools to plan your year ahead and set some realistic business goals with some flexibility built in to them. Once you have a clear view of your year ahead, you can always verify your progress as the days advance. It will give you a better sense of control over your workdays.

I would like to report to you that your Board of Directors this year are a committed group of people who are diligently and carefully working on growing this organization for the future. The planning process is not always easy and this is where we require your input. Please take the time to take a notepad and write down your wishes and desires as to how the watch repair and clock repair profession can be better and more enjoyable. After this, I would like you to e-mail them to me at the address mentioned below so I can share them with the rest of the team on this Board of Directors.

Also, if you would like to serve on a committee or have questions, comments and concerns I encourage you to contact me at the following email address below.

In the meantime, keep your skills honed, your standards very high, your attitude professional, your tools and equipment in great condition and your workshops clean and organized; you never know who may come by to pay you a visit.

Manuel Yazijian