I’m glad you have decided to take your watch to a professional watchmaker. J.Peter is right, $200 is a very fair price for a complete service of a watch of this calibre. If you would like to see a video of the movement contained in your watch being assembled, I’d recommend you check out this page regarding the 6497. Keep in mind that this video is just one aspect of the work that a watchmaker would carry out on your watch. If you would like an idea of some of the finer work involved in overhauling a mechanism like this, I’d recommend checking out this video on lubricating the anti-shock system.

Please help.

Thanks so much for the advice! I reviewed Desmond Guilfoyle’s wonderful piece on the Cal 56x movements and noted that they do, in fact, have a mobile stud carrier as you’ve also noted in your terrific response! Thanks again and enjoy the remainder of your weekend!

Nick

This tip is, indeed, only relevant to watches with a moveable stud holder. Modern ETA calibres, of course, being the most ubiquitous.

I would be very careful in painting vintage Omegas with such a broad brush, DaveN. It is true, that very early vintage Omega calibres, like the Omega 321 and 501 have the stud fixed in the balance cock. However, many other vintage Omegas, such as the popular 861 or 551 calibres et al, have stud holders that can be moved. The stud holder on these calibres is plated the same colour as the balance cock, and is fixed more solidly in place than ETA stud holders, so I could see how one might be led to think that it is part of the balance cock, but it is most assuredly a mobile stud holder. I would dissuade any watchmaker from altering the beat on such movements by rotating the hairspring collet, as many of them are notable, chronometer certified timekeepers and the positioning of the collet relative to the balance wheel was accounted for during regulation.

Nick, regarding the swan neck regulator. I agree with J.Peter’s comments regarding a double swan neck being a surer bet. Unless of course the stud is fixed in place or another means of fixing the stud in place such as the means employed by Rolex, which he mentioned, or the Geneva stud lock used by Patek Philippe and other high end manufactures. Like J.Peter though, I can’t vouch for this from experience, as I’ve never had a watch with a swan neck regulator come in that was only in need of a minor adjustment.

Regarding the 1120, it is susceptible to being knocked out of beat by a strong jolt, as it is derived from the ETA calibre 2892. It is a good example of a watch for which this tip could come in handy.

All of that said, this tip isn’t “groundbreaking”. Adjusting the beat is always the first thing I tend to when regulating a timepiece (given that it already has good amplitude). Timing comes second. What I felt was noteworthy about what the watchmaker told me, was that prior to his advice, I would tend to check the watch in several positions before passing judgement on the problem and making any necessary corrections. By zeroing in directly on the beat error and then checking the timing in multiple positions , I’ve found I’ve been able to save a few minutes now and then. And it’s little timesavers, here and there, like that, that make you more productive and, ultimately, more profitable in the end.

Thank you for your prompt responses!! It’s nice to see that there are still people who appreciate mechanical watches in our increasingly “quartz” world! Can’t wait to see how the predictions for SIHH turn out!

Take care,

Nick