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Rolex Lugs

by Jordan Ficklin

Day in and day out I look at Rolexes. Some days I’m fixing them. On days like today I size bracelets to fit the customer. All those watches we sell before Christmas come back to get fit just right to the customer’s wrist. For the first time today I noticed the new Air King has a different lug treatment than previous editions.

It seems all new Rolex models are getting new lug treatment. If you like Rolexes I’m sure you know that the new Datejust case has polished lugs. The new GMT II with ceramic bezel has wider lugs, but did you notice the finish is different?

Prior to the recent wave of case updates nearly every Rolex case had a 45 degree brushed finish on the case lugs (a finish that was tangential to the crystal’s circumference as pictured on the Anniversary Sub to the left.) On new cases the finish runs parallel to the imaginary line running from 6 to 12 (see top 2 pics) unless the case has polished lugs. This includes the new Air King, O.P. GMT II Ceramic, All Gold Submariner, and Deep Sea

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