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	<title>Comments on: Horia Jeweling Tool</title>
	<atom:link href="http://watchmakingblog.com/2008/01/22/horia-jeweling-tool/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://watchmakingblog.com/2008/01/22/horia-jeweling-tool/</link>
	<description>A mechanical watchmaker in a digital world</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Wed, 16 May 2012 16:48:30 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>By: J.Peter</title>
		<link>http://watchmakingblog.com/2008/01/22/horia-jeweling-tool/comment-page-1/#comment-58937</link>
		<dc:creator>J.Peter</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 17 Apr 2012 18:01:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://watchmakingblog.com/2008/01/22/horia-jeweling-tool/#comment-58937</guid>
		<description>Dushan, thank you for sharing your opinion.  At the time of my writing this post (4 years ago and just 2 years into my watchmaking career), my only exposure to Seitz tools was their reduced set (which does not have a micrometric feed).  Installing jewels by squeezing a lever requires more skills for precise adjustment, than does turning a precisely controlled micrometric knob.  I am now aware that there are Seitz tools with micrometric feed but of the 4 sets I have used, not one of them had it so I think they must be more rare than the ones that do.  I do agree that the Horiz tool looks just like the 30644 tool.  Is that tool still available?  Of the tools I have used (Favorite, Seitz, Horia) the Horia has been the most precise and easiest to use, albeit the least versatile.  Also, the Horia tool fits nicely in my bench where the Seitz tool is much larger and does not fit well in my bench and the handle needs to be removed for convenient micrometric adjustments.

I use my Favorite tool for jobs where it works best (reaming holes for jewels, and more) and my Horia tool for adjusting endshakes.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Dushan, thank you for sharing your opinion.  At the time of my writing this post (4 years ago and just 2 years into my watchmaking career), my only exposure to Seitz tools was their reduced set (which does not have a micrometric feed).  Installing jewels by squeezing a lever requires more skills for precise adjustment, than does turning a precisely controlled micrometric knob.  I am now aware that there are Seitz tools with micrometric feed but of the 4 sets I have used, not one of them had it so I think they must be more rare than the ones that do.  I do agree that the Horiz tool looks just like the 30644 tool.  Is that tool still available?  Of the tools I have used (Favorite, Seitz, Horia) the Horia has been the most precise and easiest to use, albeit the least versatile.  Also, the Horia tool fits nicely in my bench where the Seitz tool is much larger and does not fit well in my bench and the handle needs to be removed for convenient micrometric adjustments.</p>
<p>I use my Favorite tool for jobs where it works best (reaming holes for jewels, and more) and my Horia tool for adjusting endshakes.</p>
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		<title>By: Dushan Grujich</title>
		<link>http://watchmakingblog.com/2008/01/22/horia-jeweling-tool/comment-page-1/#comment-58928</link>
		<dc:creator>Dushan Grujich</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 17 Apr 2012 17:03:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://watchmakingblog.com/2008/01/22/horia-jeweling-tool/#comment-58928</guid>
		<description>Hello Jordan!

I feel that your statement where You say how Horia jewelling tool is far superior to Seitz must be challenged. I really would like to hear what is it that Horia tool can do and standard Seitz cannot, including the the endshake adjustment governed by micrometer setting. 

BTW Horia tool is a knockoff of the early 1950&#039;s Seitz #30664 specialised Jewelling Tool for endshake adjustment. 

Also what is it about the Seitz tool that &quot;takes some getting used to&quot;? 

I have used my Seitz tool during several decades and its use is simple and straight forward, a piece of cake.

Dushan 

The newsletter: 
http://www.geocities.ws/dushang2000/images/Seitz%20News%20P%202.jpg

The 1954 Seitz Price List:
http://www.geocities.ws/dushang2000/images/Seitz%20Price%20List%201954%20p%201-4.jpg</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hello Jordan!</p>
<p>I feel that your statement where You say how Horia jewelling tool is far superior to Seitz must be challenged. I really would like to hear what is it that Horia tool can do and standard Seitz cannot, including the the endshake adjustment governed by micrometer setting. </p>
<p>BTW Horia tool is a knockoff of the early 1950&#8242;s Seitz #30664 specialised Jewelling Tool for endshake adjustment. </p>
<p>Also what is it about the Seitz tool that &#8220;takes some getting used to&#8221;? </p>
<p>I have used my Seitz tool during several decades and its use is simple and straight forward, a piece of cake.</p>
<p>Dushan </p>
<p>The newsletter:<br />
<a href="http://www.geocities.ws/dushang2000/images/Seitz%20News%20P%202.jpg" rel="nofollow">http://www.geocities.ws/dushang2000/images/Seitz%20News%20P%202.jpg</a></p>
<p>The 1954 Seitz Price List:<br />
<a href="http://www.geocities.ws/dushang2000/images/Seitz%20Price%20List%201954%20p%201-4.jpg" rel="nofollow">http://www.geocities.ws/dushang2000/images/Seitz%20Price%20List%201954%20p%201-4.jpg</a></p>
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		<title>By: Gui</title>
		<link>http://watchmakingblog.com/2008/01/22/horia-jeweling-tool/comment-page-1/#comment-14933</link>
		<dc:creator>Gui</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 21 Dec 2009 14:45:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://watchmakingblog.com/2008/01/22/horia-jeweling-tool/#comment-14933</guid>
		<description>I have the same one (#3) for sale if anybody is interested.
I can email pix.
g.gruet-at-gmail.com</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have the same one (#3) for sale if anybody is interested.<br />
I can email pix.<br />
g.gruet-at-gmail.com</p>
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		<title>By: Tick Talk &#187; Essential Tools for a Watchmaker</title>
		<link>http://watchmakingblog.com/2008/01/22/horia-jeweling-tool/comment-page-1/#comment-12255</link>
		<dc:creator>Tick Talk &#187; Essential Tools for a Watchmaker</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 13 Oct 2009 14:59:17 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://watchmakingblog.com/2008/01/22/horia-jeweling-tool/#comment-12255</guid>
		<description>[...] Set of brass pin vises Set of steel pin vises Hand Levers  Pin Vises (Slick) / Barrel Arbor Holders Horia Jeweling Tool Staking Set Brass Hammer Incabloc pushers Balance tack Barrel Closing Tool Plexi Stick Pegwood [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] Set of brass pin vises Set of steel pin vises Hand Levers  Pin Vises (Slick) / Barrel Arbor Holders Horia Jeweling Tool Staking Set Brass Hammer Incabloc pushers Balance tack Barrel Closing Tool Plexi Stick Pegwood [...]</p>
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		<title>By: Tick Talk &#187; What&#8217;s the big deal about end shakes?</title>
		<link>http://watchmakingblog.com/2008/01/22/horia-jeweling-tool/comment-page-1/#comment-11307</link>
		<dc:creator>Tick Talk &#187; What&#8217;s the big deal about end shakes?</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 09 Sep 2009 03:33:40 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://watchmakingblog.com/2008/01/22/horia-jeweling-tool/#comment-11307</guid>
		<description>[...] talked about them in the past. I&#8217;ve talked about special tools for adjusting them, but what is the big deal about end [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] talked about them in the past. I&#8217;ve talked about special tools for adjusting them, but what is the big deal about end [...]</p>
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		<title>By: Chris</title>
		<link>http://watchmakingblog.com/2008/01/22/horia-jeweling-tool/comment-page-1/#comment-5859</link>
		<dc:creator>Chris</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 08 May 2009 00:59:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://watchmakingblog.com/2008/01/22/horia-jeweling-tool/#comment-5859</guid>
		<description>Thanks for the info! Couple of more questions. I have an older Horia Staking &amp; Jeweling set. You would think that the pushers and anvils would be the same. Are your base &amp; spindle measurements exactly 3mm &amp; 4mm? My anvils are 4.9mm and pushers are 3.9mm. I was really hoping to buy the tool you have and use my existing pushers and anvils. I guess not.
Thanks again,
Chris</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks for the info! Couple of more questions. I have an older Horia Staking &amp; Jeweling set. You would think that the pushers and anvils would be the same. Are your base &amp; spindle measurements exactly 3mm &amp; 4mm? My anvils are 4.9mm and pushers are 3.9mm. I was really hoping to buy the tool you have and use my existing pushers and anvils. I guess not.<br />
Thanks again,<br />
Chris</p>
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		<title>By: J.Peter</title>
		<link>http://watchmakingblog.com/2008/01/22/horia-jeweling-tool/comment-page-1/#comment-5843</link>
		<dc:creator>J.Peter</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 07 May 2009 17:00:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://watchmakingblog.com/2008/01/22/horia-jeweling-tool/#comment-5843</guid>
		<description>Chris, the force required to seat a jewel is not really great.  The action of the threads is more than enough.  It really is the best tool as you can easily adjust the position of a jewel by .01 or .02 mm confidently.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Chris, the force required to seat a jewel is not really great.  The action of the threads is more than enough.  It really is the best tool as you can easily adjust the position of a jewel by .01 or .02 mm confidently.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Chris</title>
		<link>http://watchmakingblog.com/2008/01/22/horia-jeweling-tool/comment-page-1/#comment-5832</link>
		<dc:creator>Chris</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 07 May 2009 12:18:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://watchmakingblog.com/2008/01/22/horia-jeweling-tool/#comment-5832</guid>
		<description>Hello,
This is an interesting tool for jeweling. Is there no need for a lever to force or press the jewel into place?
If so, I guess the micrometer head threads are strong enough to withstand the force?
Thanks!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hello,<br />
This is an interesting tool for jeweling. Is there no need for a lever to force or press the jewel into place?<br />
If so, I guess the micrometer head threads are strong enough to withstand the force?<br />
Thanks!</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Watches I &#171; Tick Talk</title>
		<link>http://watchmakingblog.com/2008/01/22/horia-jeweling-tool/comment-page-1/#comment-34</link>
		<dc:creator>Watches I &#171; Tick Talk</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 18 Mar 2008 02:59:40 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://watchmakingblog.com/2008/01/22/horia-jeweling-tool/#comment-34</guid>
		<description>[...] began to adjust endshakes and we would have to restore them to their correct positions using our jeweling tool. At this point we didn&#8217;t have to worry about whether or not the watch would tell time, it [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] began to adjust endshakes and we would have to restore them to their correct positions using our jeweling tool. At this point we didn&#8217;t have to worry about whether or not the watch would tell time, it [...]</p>
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		<title>By: Micromechanics, Part II &#171; Tick Talk</title>
		<link>http://watchmakingblog.com/2008/01/22/horia-jeweling-tool/comment-page-1/#comment-33</link>
		<dc:creator>Micromechanics, Part II &#171; Tick Talk</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 22 Feb 2008 04:19:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://watchmakingblog.com/2008/01/22/horia-jeweling-tool/#comment-33</guid>
		<description>[...] out the lathes. Our first project was to make a set of pushers and anvils (out of brass) for our Horia Tool. Because they need to fit into the tool nicely and be perfectly centered tolerances were +/- .03 [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] out the lathes. Our first project was to make a set of pushers and anvils (out of brass) for our Horia Tool. Because they need to fit into the tool nicely and be perfectly centered tolerances were +/- .03 [...]</p>
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